How designer brand Rick Owens captivates Gen Z
Deep dive into the key success factors that have propelled Rick Owens into fashion's cult status for the new generation.
From the archives: article initially published on Linkedin in October 2023
Today, I'm thrilled to spotlight Rick Owens —the iconic, alternative, namesake luxury fashion brand that has redefined the fashion landscape with its groundbreaking 'Glam Alien” avant-garde aesthetic by creating a new approach to dressing and thinking about clothes.
Established in 1994 in Los Angeles, the brand started attracting significant attention in Paris during the early 2000s after it was discovered by Maria Luisa's concept store, where the fashion icon Suzanne von Aichinger worked as a buyer.
Based in Paris since 2003 and honored twice by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) , Rick Owens has organically and progressively ascended to become the leading brand within its category. It's now a multi-hundred-million-dollar success story (probably not far from a billion), thanks to its main collections, diffusion lines like DRKSHDW, furniture collections and its collaborations.
Rick Owens is more than just a brand; it's a captivating personality and universe, and a cult with a loyal tribe.
Let's take a deep dive into the key success factors that have propelled Rick Owens into fashion's cult status for the new generation.
👽🌟 Unique aesthetic & self expression
Rick Owens' aesthetic is not about trends. The designer has crafted his own universe—a Glam Alien aesthetic that is both futuristic and deeply primal, drawing inspiration from art, architecture, mythology, and sexuality. This aesthetic is consistent, timeless, and immediately recognizable. It's a celebration of individuality and self-expression, making everyone who engages with it feel special.
Sub-brands like DRKSHDW and collaborations with mainstream brands offer Gen Z an accessible entry point into the Rick Owens universe, both in terms of product selection and price.
According to Retail Intelligence Platform EDITED, Rick Owens ranks among the most adored brands for archive collections and generates the highest views on TikTok and high sell out rates on listings across resale platforms.
📢 🙌 Authenticity
Rick Owens and his wife (and business partner), Michèle lamy, are the brand's authentic ambassadors. They both wear the brand and live in the universe Rick has created. They are known for their unflappable coolness, not only within their inner circle but also among fans and beyond. Rick has a strong sense of family. His parents used to always come to see his shows when he started showing.
In a podcast interview with StyleZeitgeist, Rick emphasized the importance of authenticity, highlighting the values of openness, realness, and honesty, as well as the importance of getting out to stay connected with reality. He's the one who talks about the brand.
He loves to feature underground artists he likes (Fecal Matters, Christeen, David Hoyle, Kembra Phaller, , Goddess Bunny, Tommy Cash...). All brand communication is handled internally by his team to maintain this authenticity.
🌈❤️ Inclusivity
Rick Owens frequently makes headlines for the diversity and inclusivity of his casting, well before the fashion industry's recent push for greater racial diversity and size inclusivity. For his Spring-Summer 2014 show', Rick Owens hired step teams from American sororities instead of traditional models.
The brand likes to blur the lines of gender stereotypes, for example for its famous Kiss Heels platform boots, which have also gained popularity among many heterosexual men.
🌿🌍 Sustainability
Rick Owens has shown a growing interest in sustainability, incorporating eco-friendly materials and practices like organic cotton and jersey and recycled and veg tanned leather into his designs and creating an "Eco-aware" line. Its production is local in Italy to reduce carbon footprints. The brand creates durable, timeless pieces, and occasionally releases limited editions and small runs, all aligning with sustainable fashion principles.
🧠🤝 Smart Collaborations
Rick Owens collaborates with cool mainstream brands like Dr. Martens (a brand that reflects his youth), Adidas, Converse, Birkenstock, Champion, and Veja. These collaborations not only expand the brand's reach but also make it more accessible, infusing avant-garde and uniqueness into everyday wear.
🤳🌟 Powerful artist endorsement
Rick Owens doesn't work with artists in its communication (no sponsoring, no campaign), but many cool and influential artists have been avidly wearing the brand these past 7-8 years, such as Kanye, A$AP Rocky, Rihanna, Cardi B, Beyonce, Billie Eilish, Rosalía, Dua Lipa, Bad Bunny, Gunna, Playboi Carti, Machine Gun Kelly, Megan Fox, Miley Cyrus, Kim Kardashian, Hunter Schafer, Teyana Taylor, Erykah Badu, among others, solidifying its position as a favorite among tastemakers and broadening its audience.
👥🔍 Engaged cult-like tribe following
Rick Owens has one of the most loyal and dedicated cult followings in fashion, surpassing most other brands. With a private Discord community created by and for archivists, accessible only by invite, and over 2 billion views on the brand hashtag on TikTok (with no Tiktok strategy and tactics), Rick Owens has organically attracted an extremely engaged cult-like tribe that enjoys sharing their findings and looks and coming together to celebrate.
💻🏬 Strong DTC & Retail presence
The brand leverages a robust multi-channel distribution strategy that includes in DTC E-Commerce and 12 concept stores in Europe, the US, Asia, and the Middle East, as well as a strong wholesale presence in select department and concept stores worldwide. This strategic approach amplifies the brand's reach and scale, establishing its omnipresence in both online and offline channels.
Rick Owens' distinctive aesthetic, coupled with an unwavering commitment to values such as authenticity, inclusivity, and sustainability, not only fuels a dedicated cult following but also attracts influential artist endorsements and collaborations, collectively driving the brand's exceptional success.
My name is Aurelia Ammour. I’m a strategy consultant and youth culture trailblazer (I'm not an agency). I built a next-gen sneaker brand, SHOES 53045, from scratch as its CEO and CMO for 4 years. I was behind the scenes of many major strategic transformation and growth projects for notable names like LVMH, Kering, PUIG, Celine, and Loewe, collaborating closely with C-Suites. I’ve also worked as a VC. Today, I help create and develop visionary & iconic brands, products, and experiences that connect with Gen Z and are relevant in today’s culture across Fashion, Luxury, CPG, and Retail sectors.