Met gala 2024: when cultural icons support the next wave of fashion designers
Curated selection of the most interesting collaborations between celebrities/fashion icons and emerging or alternative fashion designers.
From the archives: article initially published on Linkedin in May 2024
The Met Gala has become a highly significant cultural platform. The 2023 edition generated $995M in Media Impact Value (MIV), according to Launchmetrics, across a total of 116K placements on social media and online media. Emerging designers who participate often gain substantial brand recognition and interest, largely due to the celebrities and cultural icons who wear their designs. This visibility provides a platform that can catapult lesser-known labels into the spotlight.
The 2024 Met Gala was definitely an important moment celebrating indirectly John Galliano’s talent and influence in fashion, a figure who has been an all-time inspiration for the new wave of fashion designers. For this MET gala, he dressed some of the most significant fashion icons in Margiela, from Zendaya’s first look to Bad Bunny, Kim Kardashian, Gwendoline Christie And Adrien Brody. Additionally, Zendaya’s second look featured an archive design from his Givenchy era.
Zendaya, Bad Bunny, Kim Kardashian, Gwendoline Christie and Adrien Brody wearing Maison Margiela by John Galliano
But for me, it was also definitely a celebration of the new wave of fashion independent designers. Celebrities and fashion icons, increasingly support this new generation of designers who deserve recognition and need a boost to reach the next level during these challenging times. Celebrities and fashion icons often find more creativity, uniqueness, and, of course, exclusivity with these emerging talents.
This shift comes at the perfect time and aligns with the changing values of Gen Z, who appreciate exploring and purchasing from emerging designers both as a means of expressing their individuality and because these designers are often more accessible and sustainable.
Here is a curated selection of the most interesting collaborations between celebrities/fashion icons and emerging or alternative fashion designers on the theme of "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion". Unfortunately, only two of them in this list are sustainable, Khaite and Dilara Findikoglu (probably 3 in total at the Met Gala with Stella McCartney).
Doja Cat X Vetements
Vetements is no longer considered an emerging designer but has definitely established itself as a strong alternative independent designer, continuing to be disruptive after Demna’s departure. The collaboration with Doja Cat, styled by Brett Nelson, might not align with the theme, but it was very powerful in terms of storytelling and adding fun. Over the weekend and throughout the day, the singer and the designer teased us on social media, appearing like a couple in paparazzi-inspired shots that included subtle cultural references to Ye and his wife Bianca, along with Balenciaga's towel outfit. The final look was a dripping wet T-shirt dress with sparkly black mascara artfully streaming down her cheeks (by the legend Pat McGrath).
Doja Cat and her stylist are known for collaborating with emerging and alternative brands, especially in LA, but also beyond.
Cardi B X Windowsen
Cardi B and her stylist Kollin Carter are also known for collaborating with emerging and alternative designers. For two consecutive years, they have chosen to work with very talented rising Chinese fashion designers (I featured these designers in my last article about emerging Chinese designers).
After a Met Gala 2023 with ChengPeng, Cardi B's look for the 2024 edition was from avant-garde Chinese label Windowsen. Typically known for their avant-garde alien looks, the designer stepped outside their comfort zone to create a custom, massive black ball gown featuring layers of tulle ruffles and pleated fabric.
Lizzo X Weisanto
Usually known for wearing established brands like Gucci, Valentino, Versace, Marc Jacobs, and Balmain, Lizzo is now styled by Reginald and Matthew Reisman and embraced the Sleeping Beauty theme by wearing a custom couture gown and headpiece made by Parisian emerging designer Weinsanto. This gown, which gives Lizzo some goddess vibes, was originally created for Weinsanto's SS24 'Perfect Day' collection.
Chloë Sevigny X Dilara Findikoglu
Chloë Sevigny, the ultimate fashion icon and coolest independent film actress, known for her support of emerging designers and her love for archives, embraced the official theme with a historical take. This year, she collaborated with London-based Turkish avant-garde fashion designer Dilara Findikoglu.
Lil Nas X X Luar
Lil Nas X is known for his fashion statements and for endorsing emerging designers. For the Met Gala, Lil Nas and his team tend to alternate between established (Versace, Swarovski ...) and emerging fashion designers. Free from his Coach contract for red carpet events, this year they decided to collaborate with rising designer Paul Lopez of Luar, a fashion label based in NYC.
Sam Smith X Christian Cowan
Known for their avant-garde and extravagant looks, British singer Sam Smith made their debut at the Met Gala this year, opting for a quiet but chic dual look with their partner and favorite fashion designer, Christian Cowan, a NYC-based fashion label.
Ashley Graham, Rauw Alejandro and Camilla Cabello X Ludovic de Saint Sernin
Ludovic de Saint Sernin has been gaining strong traction thanks to their artist endorsements on the red carpet, which have been very effective for brand recognition and growth. This year marked the first appearance of the brand at the Met Gala.
Amelia Gray X Undercover
The American model, known for her work with Miu Miu, Chanel, Balenciaga, Mugler, Givenchy, and Versace, opted for a fantasy look by the genius Japanese fashion designer, Undercover, perfectly aligned with the Sleeping Beauty theme. She wore the iconic Terrarium dress featuring roses from its SS24 show.
Eddie Redmayne X Steve O Smith
Actor Eddie Redmayne and his wife, Hannah Bagshawe, opted for a poetic black and white bespoke dual look inspired by the work of American painter and sculptor Cy Twombly. The outfits were crafted by British menswear designer Steve O Smith, an MA fashion graduate from Central Saint Martins.
Linda Evangelista X Khaite
Legendary supermodel and fashion icon Linda Evangelista made her return to the Met Gala for the first time since 2015. She could have chosen any major luxury brand, but instead opted for the rising NYC-based sustainable luxury brand Khaite for a quiet but classy white look, complemented by jewelry from designer Ana Khouri.
Demi Moore X Harris Reed
Let's conclude with some fun. Fashion designer Harris Reed (known also as the creative Director of Nina Ricci) collaborated with his idol, Demi Moore, and her stylist, Brad Goreski, to create a custom dress. Partnering with Cartier for the high jewelry, Demi Moore wanted a magical combination that would align perfectly with the Sleeping Beauties theme. The sculptural black dress, featuring white and pink floral designs and a spiked heart-shaped structural element, was made from wallpaper and required 11,000 hours of embroidery. It was inspired by a look from Harris Reed’s namesake Fall 2024 collection.
My name is Aurelia Ammour. I’m a strategy consultant and youth culture trailblazer (I'm not an agency). I built a next-gen sneaker brand, SHOES 53045, from scratch as its CEO and CMO for 4 years. I was behind the scenes of many major strategic transformation and growth projects for notable names like LVMH, Kering, PUIG, Celine, and Loewe, collaborating closely with C-Suites. I’ve also worked as a VC. Today, I help create and develop visionary & iconic brands, products, and experiences that connect with Gen Z and are relevant in today’s culture across Fashion, Luxury, CPG, and Retail sectors.